- Why to Buy
- Product Profile
- Pricing
- Instructions
- FAQ's
- Recommended Supplies
SR2000™ Overview
SR2000 is simply the industry’s sturdiest sandcarving film. It is a user-friendly, non-stick formulation that you can trust to withstand the demands of your deepest etches and hardest surfaces. Known as “Original Blue,” SR2000 is a legacy product that has earned a loyal fan base among Rayzist customers.
The Original Blue’s patented non-stick surface streamlines processing, without limiting your ability to carve fine details and compelling etches on a variety of materials. Use it for glass, wood, stone, ceramic, granite, marble, soft metals, and curved or flat surfaces.
When you’re ready to attach SR2000 to your substrate’s surface, simply apply Rayzist RZ2 or RZ3 adhesive with a foam brush or sprayer. The thin, watery glue then dries to a strong, reliable binding agent.
Trusted performance
SR2000 spares you the frustration of fighting with an ultra tacky adhesive surface. This advantage is particularly noticeable in humid environments, but SR2000 is equally reliable in dry conditions.
Our customers say SR2000 has all the features they need to carve more efficiently:
- Manufacturer direct film support
- Industry-leading durability
- Easy application; no need to struggle with carrier release
- No darkroom needed
- Versatility; can be used on many surface types
- Fast clean up; no solvents needed
- Deeper Etch / Monument grade photoresist
- Excellent detail
- Quick washout
- Rapid exposure
In short, SR2000 has earned a reputation for giving sandcarvers the flexibility and reliability they demand. Here’s what our customer Karen Kvernenes has to say about it: “easiest to use, most consistent.”
Description:
The "Original Blue" user friendly SR2000™ is a high resolution photoresist enabling carvers to achieve supreme detail and a deeper etch among competing films. SR2000™ provides an ideal system for creating fine quality engraving on endless varieties of glass, wood, stone, ceramic, granite, marble, and soft metals. From exposing to blasting, carvers are able to get it done faster and more efficiently then ever before.
Requirements:
SR2000 can be processed easily with a UV light source, film print and pressurized washout unit, such as a Rayzist Hand Washer or automatic washout unit. SR2000 is used with a Rayzist formula adhesive—RZ2, which is quickly applied with a foam brush or RZ3, which can be applied with a sprayer.
A Plastic Burnisher is necessary to bind the processed photomask to the substrate surface. The Rayzist Wire Wheel Brush is also strongly recommended; this hand-held tool releases air trapped between the substrate and the photomask.
Room Lighting:
You do not need a darkroom or yellow lighting to use SR2000. The film can be safely handled in white fluorescent lighting for approximately ten minutes. Avoid any room or area that has direct or indirect UV light such open windows or doors. Sunlight will expose the film in a matter of seconds.
For larger volume production, we recommend installing yellow fluorescent bulbs to maximize the film’s handling time.
Mils:
SR2000™ comes in 3-6 & 9 mil thicknesses.
3 mil is recommended for fine detailed artwork and halftoned photos.
4 mil is recommended for moderate detailed artwork and a moderate depth etch.
5 mil is recommended for bold artwork, moderate to deep stage carving.
6 mil is recommended for harder surfaces, bold artwork and deep carving.
9 mil is recommended for harder surfaces, bold artwork and deep carving.
Durability:
SR2000™ has unmatched blast resilient properties superior to any photoresist in the industry. Blast high resolution designs without the worry of pin hole blast through or carrier release bubbling.
Shelf Life:
Conservatively, 14 months at room temperature.
Development:
From wash out to dry time, SR2000™ will cut your production time significantly. Standard washout times begin at 45-90 seconds, depending on the mil.
Exposure Time:
30 seconds, 3-6 mil.
High Productivity:
Rayzist® photoresists apply and clean up faster and easier, saving up to 1/3 of total labor* over any other photoresist material.
Patented NON-STICK Surface:
Special treatment eliminates "sticky film" problems conducive to humid environments. No struggling with exposure, application, or clean up. All mils air dry within 30-60 minutes. Save money with one film for any environment, any time of year.
Material Chosen and Why:
SR2000™ photoresist film satisfies all levels of production with extremely fast exposure times, quick wash out, easy application, superior durability, finer detail, unmatched depth and fast clean up... without the need for special yellow lighting, resist removers, or any other added expense.
SR2000™ Photo Resist Film - 8.5" x 14" Sheets
All Pricing is Subject to Change Without Notice
Thickness
3 mil
4 mil
5 mil
6 mil
9 mil
5 Sheets
$40.46
$43.44
$46.41
$49.39
$67.24
595 sq in
$.068
$.073
$.078
$.083
$.113
10 Sheets
$73.78
$80.92
$86.87
$92.82
$128.52
1190 sq in
$.062
$.068
$.073
$.078
$.108
25 Sheets
$169.58
$184.45
$202.30
$217.18
$306.43
2975 sq in
$.057
$.062
$.068
$.073
$.103
SR2000™ Photo Resist Film - Rolls
All Pricing is Subject to Change Without Notice
Thickness
3 mil
4 mil
5 mil
6 mil
9 mil
25' x 14"
$235.20
$256.20
$281.40
$302.40
$432.60
4200 sq in
$.056
$.061
$.067
$.072
$.103
50' x 14"
$411.60
$462.00
$504.00
$546.00
$823.20
8400 sq in
$.049
$.055
$.060
$.065
$.098
100' x 14"
$722.40
$806.40
$890.40
$974.40
$1562.40
16800 sq in
$0.043
$0.048
$0.053
$0.058
$0.093
What side of the glass is normally etched, front or back?
Etching on glass always has the best appearance when etching from the back side, unless the etching is very light or surface depth, then the front side would show best, this would be particularly true for Jade glass.
What is the best way to sandcarve on wood handles?
I have no direct information on wood handles with out seeing the pieces. If your handles have a curve to them, you can warm the mask, this will enhance the materials ply-ability for wrapping around the curves. Keep in mind, that softer woods such as pine are easiest to engrave however, make sure of the following:
1. Avoid overheating the mask.
2. Make sure the mask is flat and tight on the surface of the piece.
3. Keep your blasting pressure low to moderate. Do not blast with great intensity; this can lead to a stubborn residue that is left behind.
4. After blasting, Peel away the mask quickly; do not allow the mask to sit on the piece for any longer than it has too. This will also help prevent any left over residue.
How do you wrap the laser mask on a round or curved surface?
Applying a flat mask to a rounded surface will naturally create some wrinkles.
What I typically do with curvature items is:
- Separate the plastic backing from your LaserMask material you are going to use, this will eliminate the non-flexible component and give you a little more flexiblity to work with.
- Apply the flexible LaserMask to your substrate.
- With your thumbs work out any wrinkles.
Why is the photoresist film not washing out at all?
This can happen to anyone; here are some things to check:
- You may have placed the clear carrier side facing up on your washout board, or on the drum of your automatic washout system. To correct this, simply remove the magnets and turn the photoresist over. Make sure the clear, shiny carrier is lying against the washout board or washout drum, and try it again.
- You are washing your film in direct sunlight or outside. Because the film is light sensitive, you can’t wash it in direct sunlight. This will expose over the existing exposure you have completed.
- You may have exposed the ink/toner side of your film print to the wrong side of the photoresist. If you have done this, you must use a new sheet of photoresist material. Be sure you are exposing the ink/toner side of your film print to the matte side of photoresist.
How long does it take the photoresist to washout?
This will depend on the sheet size, thickness of the material and the temperature and pressure of your water. All these answers combined are crucial to producing a perfect photomask everytime.
What is a photomask?
Photomask: a stencil made of photoresist film that has undergone a developing process. The stencil design is typically created from custom, computer-generated artwork, which may include lettering, photo images and/or a design pattern. The finished photomask is used to guide the sandcarving process, so that the custom artwork is etched or engraved into the surface being carved.
--- Photomask may also be called mask, stencil, premade pattern or template. ---
What is a Membrane?
Membrane: a clear, exceptionally thin layer present on some types of photoresist films. The membrane allows for easy release of the film carrier and, once the film has been developed, holds the photomask together. The membrane disintegrates during the sandcarving process.
What is Photoresist Film?
Photoresist Film: a translucent, durable, flexible, light responsive, water soluble, raw film that has not gone through a developing process.
---- Photoresist film is used to create a finished photomask. Photoresist film may also be called raw material or film. ---
How do I remove the photomask after sandcarving?
This will depend on two things: the material of your engraved surface and how that engraved surface can be treated.
1. For best results, submerge the piece in warm water and let it soak for several minutes. Because the photomask is water-soluble, it will absorb the water and cause the photomask to loosen from the engraved surface. Warm water also helps remove the dust and grit from the surface, which helps prevent scratching.
If the item you have engraved cannot be submerged under water, as in the case of a picture frame or a labeled wine bottle, try the following:
- Blow off any excess dust or grit from the item.
- Spray the remaining photomask with warm water and allow the item to sit for several minutes.
- Peel away the photomask from the surface.
2. You can also try lifting off the remaining photomask material with tacky tape. This way, you avoid rubbing the surface, which can scratch wood, acrylic, polished or coated metals.
Recommended Supplies SR2000™
Rayzist offers a full line of products designed to optimize the performance of your SR2000 or SR3000 photoresist films. The recommended supplies for use with these films are shown below.
For added convenience, we have bundled all of these products (except the optional film dryer) into the Rayzist UV Letralite® Mask Making Kit.
- UV Letralite Unit: an ultra violet light source used to expose printed film to SR2000 or SR3000 Photoresist.
- RZ2/RZ3 adhesive: RZ2 Brush-On Adhesive. RZ3 for use with a spray gun.
- UV Vellum, Inkjet Film or Laser Film: the material onto which the custom artwork is printed in the process of making a photomask.
- Plastic burnisher: a hand-held, plastic tool used to bind the photomask to the substrate surface and remove the clear carrier sheet from photomask. To use, sweep the burnisher over the applied photomask while applying gentle pressure.
- Blasting tape: a ribbed vinyl tape that is used to protect areas of the substrate that are not covered by the photomask. A quality blasting tape is easy to tear, very durable, and peels away from the substrate without leaving a sticky or gummy residue behind.
- Hand sprayer: a high pressure, hand-held spray unit that easily connects to any standard faucet. Designed specifically for washing out exposed photoresist, the Rayzist hand sprayer delivers pressure of 45-55 psi and produces a 4-inch-wide fan of water for an even washout. The hand sprayer comes with a wash nozzle, hose and faucet adapter. Use with the Rayzist magnetic white Washout board for best results.
- Washout board: a white, magnetic board used for washing out exposed photoresist. To use, place the exposed photoresist against the washout board and apply the appropriate water pressure; the white color of the board allows you to see your washout results immediately. The washout board is 12 inches by 15 inches in size.
- Cover paper: a paper material that protects processed photomask from gathering debris or dust particles prior to sandcarving. Cover paper is applied by placing the shiny side of the paper against a photomask that has been washed out and dried. The photomask can then be stored at room temperature until you are ready to use it.
- Wire wheel brush: a hand-held brush tool used to release air trapped between the photomask membrane and the substrate surface. The brush is equipped with a handle for ease-of-use and hairline bristle wire for gentle perforation of the photomask membrane. It is used after the photomask is burnished to the substrate surface.
- Magic Dark toner repair kit: a kit that includes spray-on Magic Dark solution and a stainless steel roller. The Magic Dark toner repair kit is used to improve the boldness and sharpness of laser jet film prints, to ensure that the print can be successfully processed into a high quality photomask.
- Premier™ film dryer (optional): a cabinet-top unit that dries up to four sheets of photoresist film in as fast as 10 minutes. The Premier film dryer works by distributing heated air around the film sheets; this is an efficient alternative to air-drying processed photoresist film.
- 1020, 1232, or 1650 Automatic Washout System (optional):Process your photoresist film faster. This system enhances your productivity by streamlining the washout process.
